DIYskate.com - An organized, free site full of everything you could ever want to know about how to do it yourself, in regards to skateboarding.

How to make a concrete skateboard mold

Concrete skateboard molds are relatively easy to make. However you are limited in your pressing options. You will almost always have to use an actual press, hydraulic or bottle jack.

If you have a press or plan on making one all you need to make a concrete skateboard mold is a uncut skateboard deck, wooden box, the tools listed and concrete.

Three Rapid Set - Cement All pre-mixed 55lb bags are your best bet for making a concrete skateboard mold.

Rapid Set or Hydraulic Cement as it is more commonly known, sets much quicker than most concretes (within 1 hour). It also has more strength and very little shrinkage. These characteristics make it perfect for making a concrete skateboard mold. And no, they are not paying me to say this, it's just great for concrete skateboard molds.

If your local hardware store doesn't carry Rapid Set or Hydraulic Cement, you can use many other brands and types. Like Quikrete Fiber Reinforced, or even mix your own.

Just try to find some that has minimal shrinkage and gives you at least 2000-psi of strength. If you do choose a brand other than Rapid Set, be prepared to wait 24 hours for it to set and 28 days before you can use it.

---

Build it

Once you have your materials together, build a box from 3/4" MDF or plywood that has an inside dimension of 9 1/2" wide x 34" in length x 6" tall. You will want to pre drill the screw locations with a 1/16" drill bit to avoid splitting.

If you're using a concrete that requires a lengthy setting time, you might want to build two boxes and purchase two uncut decks for convenience.

Be sure you make this box square. It is important that all pieces fit together tight. A table saw is an excellent way to achieve this, although a circular saw or even a jig saw can be used if you have the skill it requires. Or you could cheat and use a fence.

---

Trim

Obtain an uncut skateboard deck. SkatePaige.com carries a 9 1/2" uncut, unfinished deck that is perfect for this. I don't really care for their concave, but hey, that's just my opinion and besides, the price is right and the shipping quick.

Trim this uncut deck to 9 1/2" x 34" square. This is done by finding the center and measuring out from there. Doing this removes the rough edges and (if done properly) squares the deck for a snug fit in the wooden box.

---

Assemble

All right, you should have a box and a squared up deck. Before assembly, sand the skateboard deck using progressively finer sandpaper until smooth.

Place this deck bottom side up in the box, again, this should be a snug fit. Pre drill and put about four screws into the deck on both sides. Measure and drill carefully for screw placement.

You may want to use some sort of "filler" under the deck, such as sand, expandable foam etc... to keep the weight of the concrete from bowing the deck.

---

Threaded rod

Cut two, 3" × 11" slats out of 3/4" plywood. Drill two, 9/16" holes in each slat where shown. Attach them to the finished box. These are to hold the threaded rods in place while the concrete is poured.

You will need four threaded rods per mold, 5" long. Thread a nut onto each rod, 2" down and place them into the slats as shown. These will allow you to bolt this concrete mold to the press once finished.

These are the bottom mold slats, the hole locations differ from the top mold slats.

---

Prepare

Place the box on a level surface. Spray the inside of the wooden box with WD-40 so the concrete will easily separate from the wood. Total coverage and an adequate coat is necessary for proper removal. Just don't allow it to run, drip or pool. Gather the reinforcing wire. Chicken wire or cut up coat hangers will do.

---

Mix

Mix your concrete per instructions on the bag. Most concrete mixtures are temperature sensitive, so take the necessary steps to allow your mold the best chance for success.

---

Fill

You might want to give the box another quick, light coat of the WD. Pour your concrete mixture into the wooden box until about half full. Place your reinforcing wire on top of the concrete then continue to fill the box until full.

Once full, you will need to immediately vibrate the concrete to release the air bubbles. I used a hammer drill to vibrate through the sides, a palm sander and even my scroll saw, which when turned on shakes the crap out of anything on my workbench. Use your imagination.

---

Cure

Follow the manufacturers instructions to allow the concrete to cure. You will most likely have to keep the surface damp for a half hour or longer.

Once the concrete cures, remove the screws and take apart the wooden box, removing the concrete skateboard mold.

You may have to pry the wood panels from the concrete. Be careful not to chip or crack the concrete if using tools to assist in the removal.

---

Rebuild

You should be able to use the original box and uncut deck for the top mold too. Clean them up a little bit and reassemble, with the deck bottom side down.

Just like the bottom mold, pre drill and put about four screws into the deck on both sides. Measure and drill carefully for screw placement.

You may want to use some sort of "filler" under the deck, such as sand, expandable foam, etc... to keep the weight of the concrete from bowing the deck.

---

Threaded rod

Cut two, 3" × 11" slats out of 3/4" plywood. Drill two, 9/16" holes in each slat where shown. Attach them to the finished box.

You will need four threaded rods per mold, 5" long. Thread a nut onto each rod, 2" down and place them into the slats as shown. These will allow you to bolt this concrete mold to the press once finished.

These are the top mold slats, the hole locations differ from the bottom mold slats.

---

Prepare, mix, fill and cure

The steps above for the bottom mold are the same for the top, follow them exactly. Then allow the concrete to cure the same way as before and remove that bad boy from the mold.

Once again be careful during the removal. No need to get in a rush a ruin all that hard work.

---

Finished

Viola! Your done. If you took all the necessary steps, your concrete skateboard mold should have a smooth, pit free finish and is ready to start turning out perfect decks.

These molds were designed for this press. However, you can purchase a press from an industrial store and adapt it to fit, good luck and have fun.

---

If you catch a mistake or feel something needs further explanation, please let me know.

  Back   •   Top     •   Home  

Related Links
♠   Tim Brauch	♠   3' Quarter Pipe	♠   Wood Mold	♠   Press
♠   Glue	♠   Screen Print	♠   Store	♠   Angled Ledge
♠   Kicker Ledge	♠   Stair Ledge	♠   Spine Ramp	♠   Grind Box
♠   Block Ledge	♠   Launch Ramp	♠   Kicker	♠   Tips
♠   3' Quarter Pipe	♠   Bank Ramp	♠   Veneer	♠   Donate

Copyright © 2007-2008 DIYskate.com