HOW TO MAKE A SKATEBOARD KICKER RAMP
A skateboard kicker ramp is another easy to build structure that doesn't require much wood. The dimensions of this kicker ramp are 6' long, 4' wide and 1'-6 tall.
You can add an old set of trucks with wheels to the back of the kicker ramp to make it easier to move.
WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES
The wood and hardware can be found at most home improvement stores. Sometimes you can find the steel there as well, I know my local Home Depot carries the coping and threshold material.
If not, you can search the internet for steel fabricators or salvage steel. Personally, I've begun buying my steel from MetalsDepot.com because of their very quick shipping and good prices. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just like them and their product.
If this ramp is going to stay outside, it needs to be protected from the elements. A good place to start is with pressure treated lumber, paint and a tarp. You may want to invest in a composite material for the surface too. Such as Skate Lite or Ramp Armor.
Be extra careful when working with treated lumber though, the chemicals used to treat the wood contain a poisonous pesticide.
BUILD IT
Gather all your materials. Start with the 2x4's. Cut 10 pieces at 3'-10 1/2 in length (you will get 2 out of each 8' long 2x4). Set them aside. Below is a cut list referencing what else you will need and it's size.
CUT THE SIDES
You can obviously make your skateboard kicker ramp any size you want. However, for this set of plans you will need to cut the two sides to 1'-6 x 5'-6 as shown above.
FRAMING THE BOTTOM
Attach the bottom 2x4 cross members as shown
FRAMING THE TOP
Now attach the eight 2x4 cross members, 8" on center starting from the bottom.
ATTACHING THE PLYWOOD
Cover the framed skateboard kicker ramp with a piece of 3/4" thick plywood that is 4' wide by 6'-2 long. The plywood should just touch the ground and go to the top of the kicker.
ATTACHING THE MASONITE
Attach the six pieces that are 1'-0 in length to the bottom of the box like shown here. Put four screws in each piece, two through each side.
ATTACHING THE STEEL
If constructed properly, you should have about 10" between the masonite and the ground. This is where you place the 4' x 10", 3/16" thick sheet metal or 1/4" plastic.
Drill a 3/16" hole about 2 inches in from each side and one in the middle. After the holes are drilled, countersink each by using the 3/8" drill bit to drill down just enough so the screw heads are flush.
The steel threshold is also available at steel fabrication shops. You may be able to find the steel at home improvement stores too. They don't have the best selection, but it might be enough to get you by.
