Approximate Cost: $80 Easy | | | | | Difficult

Materials needed ♠   1 - 4×8, 3/4" plywood ♠   7 - 2×4's, 8' long ♠   1 - Box of 1 5/8" screws ♠   1 - Box of 2 1/2" screws ♠   2 - 2×2, 1/4" x 4' angle

Tools needed ♠   Tape Measure & Pencil ♠   Circular saw or Jig saw ♠   Drill w/ philips bit ♠   3/16" & 3/8" drill bits

How to make a Picnic Ledge

I figured I would add one more ledge before I moved on and it would be a picnic table ledge. Similar to the Stair Ledge but smaller and easier to move. It will also cost less to make. It's 4' long, 3' wide and about 1'-10 tall (at it's tallest).

How to make a Picnic Ledge - Preparation

The plywood, lumber and screws can be found at most home improvement stores. However, the steel angle iron may be a little more difficult to find.

First try "Steel Yards", "Steel Fabricators" or "Structural Steel" in the phone book. If these are not available, try a home improvement store, such as Menards, Home Depot or Lowes. Finally, if you're still having difficulty, try "Scrap Yards", "Junk Yards" or "Salvage Yards" in the phone book or online.

If you plan on leaving this structure outside, you will want to use pressure treated wood, water sealant or paint and a tarp.

Plywood layout

You can get the sides and top pieces out of one piece of 3/4" thick cdx plywood if you use the layout diagram below.

Go ahead and cut the rectangular pieces now using a circular saw or a jig saw and a steady hand.

Then cut the sides for the ledge using the illustration below.

The 7 1/2" × 2" cut is optional, it's only purpose is to make the ledge look more like picnic table.

Cutting the 2×4's

Using the cut list below, cut all your 2×4's and set them aside. It's a good idea to keep them separate and mark them so you don't get confused. You should get everything listed below out of 7 - 2×4's.

2×4 Cut List

Framing the bottom

Frame the bottom to look like the image below. Use two 2×4's at 3'-10 1/2 for the sides and two 2×4's at 2'-7 for the framing.

It's a good idea to pre-drill the screw locations near the ends with a 3/16" drill bit to keep the wood from splitting, keep that in mind throughout the build.

When attaching 2×4's to 2×4's, use 2 1/2" or 3" long screws.

Framing the top

Build the top to look like the image above. Using two 2×4's at 3'-10 1/2 for the front and back and five 2×4's at 1'-6 placed every 11 5/8" on center as shown. Set this assembly aside for now.

Attaching the sides

Attach two of the 1'-9 in length 2×4's to the back of the frame as shown below. Put four screws in each piece, 2 through each cross member.

Then attach the other two 2×4's to frame, 1'-6 from the inside or 1'-7 1/2" from the outside of the frame.

Note how the 2×4's are flat against the frame, this is done for additional strength.

Attaching the top

Place the top on the newly attached sides. This is much easier if you flip the bottom up and lay it on its side. Put 4 screws in each just like the bottom. Make sure everything is level and square. If not, the ledge will rock on the ground like a wobbly table.

Attaching the plywood Sides

Using the 3/4" plywood sides you cut out earlier, attach them both to the framework as shown in the image above. You can be generous with the screws here.

When attaching plywood to 2×4's, use 1 5/8" long screws.

Framing the lower ledge

Build the lower ledge's framework to look like the image above. Using two 2×4's at 3'-10 1/2 for the front and back and five 2×4's at 1'-0 placed every 11 5/8" on center as shown.

Placing the framework

Using 1 5/8" screws, screw the frame you just assembled in place inside the two sides of the ledge assembly. Make sure the frame is flush with the top and front of the 3/4" plywood sides.

Now attach the previously cut 4'-0 long by 1'-3 wide by 3/4" thick plywood front to the ledge assembly as well.

Attaching the plywood tops

Using the 3/4" plywood tops you cut out earlier, attach them both to the framework as shown in the image above. Make sure you screw into the 2×4's underneath.

The plywood sheet on top is 4'-0 long by 1'-9 wide and the lower one is 4'-0 long by 10" wide.

Attaching the coping

Place the angle iron on the edge of box like shown. Drill a 3/16" hole on each end on both sides where shown. The top and bottom dimensions are offset so the screws won't hit each other. On a ledge this length you need to place a one more screw in the middle as well.

After the holes are drilled, countersink each by using the 3/8" drill bit to drill down just enough so the screw heads are flush with the coping. This will keep your trucks and board from hitting them when you grind or slide.

Skate it

I never really know what to say here. Usually I would say, "that's it, you've made one fine ledge" or... "Break out the radio and learn ssbsts's" but you don't need me to tell you something you already know.

So I guess I will just leave this one be. Or you could send me pictures of your finished project.

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